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Glossary
Origins of Jaquard-Weavery. Also: Characteristics of brocades/damasks
A few short introductions
Schneider & Wohlenberg Collection
Our patterned "Theater Kollektion" fabrics and plain wool cloths are here.
Glossary: Fabric qualities
Warps are generally made out of mercerised, durable cotton yarn. The different weft materials are specified for each listed article.
Traditional / National Costume Patterns
Brocades (metallic spun yarn and rayon)
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Theatre /Stage Brocades
(short: TB)
Our Brocades are manufactured in a pattern of your choice, in 160cm width-panels. Stage Brocade is comprised of black or white warps (mercerised cotton) and wefts of diverse fibers (50% lurex and 50% rayon/viscose in most cases). Lurex creates an intense sheen and brilliant long-distance effects. In general, Stage Brocade is suitable for stage or carnival costumes, as well as decor and ornamental uses.
Weight: appr. 200g/m²
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Traditional /National Costumes
Our clients are firmly rooted in their customs and traditions which is especially notable in the various German "Trachten" (formal national / folk costumes with detailed, handed down patterns).
We believe in the importance of this cultural heritage, offering a range of fabrics with characteristic, historical patterns that are executed in traditonal materials and colors. These fabrics are individually manufactured according to your specifications, highlighting the precious look and value of every individual costume.
Wefts: viscose, rayon, cotton or wool (optionally).
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Paraments
For generations, we have produced fabrics for liturgical use. What would a service be without elaborate garments?
Fabrics incorporating metal foil yarn display a brilliant distance-effect suitable for stoles, chasubles and other paraments. Our parament fabrics are woven on mercerised cotton warps, with classic liturgical colors, in 160cm width.
weft: 50% metal foil yarn (a stronger "Lurex") and 50% viscose/rayon
weight: about 225g/m²
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Brocades (metallic spun yarn and viscose/rayon)
Short: BV
An affordable alternative to real spun gold Brocades, these Brocades are a true classic with a very subtle, fine sheen. Metal spun yarn designs appear to be delicate and graceful.
These fabrics are woven on coloured mercerised cotton warps in 160cm width. They are often used for historical clothing, costumes or traditionbal garb.
For these Brocades, you can choose out of a vast array of patterns and hundreds of colour combinations.
Wefts: 50% metallic spun yarn and 50% viscose/rayon.
Weight: about 240g/m²
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Brocades with metallic spun yarn, silk and cotton
Short: BHS
These Brocades are a very noble and exquisite alternative to our real spun gold Brocades. Silk and metallic spun yarn create a look of classyness and opulence. This fabric is of use for costly, precious garbs and robes, tapestries and room decor.
It is woven on coloured mercerised cotton warps in 160cm width.
Wefts: 50% metallic spun yarn and 50% Schappe-silk (50% silk and 50% cotton)
Weight: about 245g/m²
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Real Gold Brocade
These fabrics were sought after for fashionable, costly tapestries in the renaissance and baroque era. Real Gold Brocades are rarely seen today, but can be used for opulent garbs, traditional costumes tapestries and room decor. One of our customers has been manufacturing delicate artificial fabric flowers with our Real Gold Brocades for many years.
Real Gold Brocades are woven on coloured mercerised cotton warps, silk warps or even Real Gold- or Silver warps, according to your needs and wishes. The processed silk and spun gold generate unparalleled luster and depth as well as soft and graceful drape.
Wefts: mostly Real Gold /Real Silver spun yarn and Schappe-silk (50% silk and 50% cotton), according to the customers wishes and needs
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Damask with viscose/rayon
Short: DV
The similarities to Brocades are obvious, yet Damask fabrics have a distinct personal flair. Subtly, tone in tone coloured, with almost "modest" patterns. The play of light between wefts and warps presents every motif in great detail.
Our Damask is woven on black, white or coloured mercerised cotton warps in 160cm width. You can choose from a wide variety of coloured viscose/rayon wefts.
Due to its gentle drape, this Damask is very suitable vor curtains or other drapery, as well as costumes, traditional attire, paraments and bridal wear.
Wefts: viscose or viscose/cotton
Weight: about 210g/m²
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Damask with silk
Short: DHS
A higher grade of viscose-Damask: Damask with silk. It is used for valuable garments, historical costumes, tapestries and room decor.
Our Damasks are woven on coloured mercerised cotton warps in 160cm width. Real silk provides inimitable, gentle sheen and drape.
Wefts: Schappe-silk
Weight: about 240g/m²
Halflinen Damask
Short: DHL
Our Halflinen Damask is woven on white, mercerised cotton warps. The elaborate historical patterns benefit from the use of linen yarn, creating a characteristic and unusual appearance and a fine, subtle luster. This quality of Damask can be made into beautiful room decor (bed linen, table linen), and also paraments.
Wefts: high quality, bleached linen yarn